Pho Tu Lun
Pho Tu Lun stands as one of Hanoi’s oldest pho establishments, boasting over eight decades of history and four generations of family stewardship. Currently, Mrs. Ngo Thi Phi Nga, the granddaughter of Mr. Tu Lun, manages the restaurant at 34 Au Trieu Street. While the recipe has been subtly adjusted to suit modern tastes, the essence of traditional pho remains intact, just as it was when her grandparents first crafted it.
What sets Pho Tu Lun apart is its rich, savory broth, a departure from the lighter broths found elsewhere. The natural sweetness of beef bones blends seamlessly with a hint of fat, creating a perfectly balanced, unforgettable flavor. The restaurant operates three locations: the original at 23C Hai Ba Trung, and branches at 34 Au Trieu and 124 Thuy Khue. In 2023, the Au Trieu branch was awarded the Bib Gourmand distinction by Michelin for its exceptional value and quality.
Pho Bat Dan
No exploration of Hanoi’s pho scene is complete without mentioning Pho Bat Dan, a century-old institution renowned for its perpetually bustling atmosphere at 49 Bat Dan Street. Locals affectionately call it “waiting pho,” as patrons patiently queue at all hours to savor its aromatic bowls.
Beyond its traditional flavor, Pho Bat Dan’s enduring appeal lies in its unique self-service model. There are no waitstaff; customers must line up, order, pay, and carry their own bowls. This hands-on approach fosters a distinct charm—simple, rustic, and quintessentially Old Hanoi.
The broth at Pho Bat Dan is meticulously simmered from beef bones and marrow, free of MSG or artificial seasonings, with only a touch of premium fish sauce. Its clear, subtly sweet, and fragrant profile leaves a lasting impression. After over 70 years, Pho Bat Dan remains a symbol of authentic Hanoi pho, revered as the epitome of Thang Long cuisine. It was recognized in the Bib Gourmand category by the Michelin Guide in both 2023 and 2024.
Pho Cu Chieu
Pho Cu Chieu in Hang Dong Street (Hoan Kiem District) stands out for its unwavering commitment to tradition. The Chieu family, originally from Van Cu Village, Nam Dinh, has preserved their recipe across four generations for over 40 years. The restaurant steadfastly avoids lime or calamansi, relying solely on garlic vinegar. Notably, the broth omits star anise, cinnamon, or cardamom, relying purely on beef bones and fresh meat.
According to Mr. Co Nhu Viet, son of Cu Chieu and current manager, the broth’s sweetness stems from fresh beef, meticulously prepared to eliminate any gaminess. Each batch simmers for 8–10 hours, yielding a clear yet robust flavor. For nearly half a century, the restaurant has remained in its small Hang Dong location, a quintessential Old Quarter establishment, yet consistently draws loyal patrons.
Pho Thin Bo Ho
Established in 1955, Pho Thin Bo Ho is intertwined with Hanoi’s collective memory. Located at 61 Dinh Tien Hoang, opposite Hoan Kiem Lake, it has been a beloved destination for locals and visitors alike for nearly 70 years.
Writer To Hoai once noted in “Chuyen cu Ha Noi”: “Pho Thin Bo Ho gained fame during the American bombing campaigns, as it was the only place in central Hanoi serving pho until late at night.” The image of Mr. Thin calmly tending his pho pot amidst air raid sirens has become a symbol of resilience and dedication.
Pho Thin Bo Ho is distinguished by its clear, light broth, free of excessive beef fat. Thinly sliced beef is briefly blanched to retain its natural sweetness. Beyond the original location, branches in Hang Tre, Le Van Huu, and Kim Ma have opened, though the lakeside spot remains the quintessential destination for authentic “classic Hanoi pho.”
Pho Suong
Pho Suong traces its origins to a mobile pho cart operated by Nguyen Van Ty in the 1930s. Ty roamed Hanoi’s streets, introducing Northern-style pho to residents. During the 1954 war, he paused operations and returned to Nam Dinh. After peace was restored, his descendants revived the family tradition, reopening in Hanoi and preserving their ancestral recipe.
By the 1980s, Pho Suong had become a household name, celebrated for its delicately sweet broth, tender noodles, and meticulously selected beef. Today, it operates three locations, most famously at 24B Ngo Trung Yen, alongside branches in Ngo 26 Nguyen Hong and 36B Mai Hac De. Each bowl harmoniously blends tradition and refinement, ensuring visitors leave as satisfied as the name “Suong” (bliss) suggests.
Pho Duc Khoi
Nestled on Phung Hung Street (Hoan Kiem), Pho Duc Khoi is a haven for connoisseurs seeking subtlety. The owner, a descendant of the Ty family (founders of Pho Suong), established his own restaurant, maintaining traditional methods without adopting the family brand.
For nearly 30 years, he has adhered to classic techniques: the broth is seasoned only with ginger, grilled onions, and premium fish sauce, avoiding star anise or cinnamon to prevent discoloration or overpowering flavors. Carefully selected beef, particularly for rare slices, ensures freshness and tenderness. The chewy noodles, clear broth, and mild sweetness compel patrons to overlook the cramped space for the sake of its exquisite flavor.
Amid Hanoi’s modern pace, where pho has become ubiquitous, these heritage restaurants remain culinary treasures. Each has its unique style and secrets, united by a commitment to preserving tradition and honoring ancestral craftsmanship.
A steaming bowl of pho on a Hanoi morning is more than a meal—it’s a memory, a cultural legacy spanning generations. Amid change, these family-run establishments safeguard the soul of Thang Long, where every sip of broth tells a story of Hanoi’s land and people.
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