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The Virtual Altar for the Kitchen God in 2024: A United Vietnam’s Culinary Tribute

"The traditions and customs surrounding the worship of the Kitchen God vary across the diverse regions of Vietnam. Each area has its unique way of honoring this beloved deity. Let's delve into the fascinating world of Kitchen God offerings and explore the distinct practices of Northern, Central, and Southern Vietnam. Uncover the rich cultural heritage and discover the unique flavors and rituals that make each region's tribute so special. Join us on this culinary journey as we pay homage to the Kitchen God with style and tradition!"

Administrator

13 July, 2024

The Kitchen Gods, or Tao Quan in Vietnamese, refer to three deities in charge of the kitchen. Every year, they return to the Heavenly Court to report on the affairs of the mortal realm to the Jade Emperor. Thus, families prepare a send-off with a ceremonial food offering. Whether the offering is simple or extravagant, the sincerity of the host is what matters, as they hope for a fortunate, smooth, and happy new year. Let’s take a look at what the Tao Quan offering includes in the three regions of Vietnam in 2024!

For reference: What is the 30th day of the Giáp Thìn Lunar New Year 2024?

1Tao Quan Offering in Northern Vietnam

What does the Tao Quan offering in the three regions include?

In Northern Vietnam, people usually offer sacrifices to the Kitchen Gods between the 20th and the 23rd of the twelfth lunar month, and no later than 12 noon on the 23rd. This is because they believe that after this time, the Kitchen Gods have already ascended to Heaven.

The offerings in the North typically include votive paper, carp, and hats and robes for the Kitchen Gods. In some places, people also offer sticky rice, congee, or prepare a full meal with boiled chicken, bamboo shoots soup, pork jelly, and pickled onions.

What sets the North apart from the other two regions is that they always offer live carp or paper carp in varying quantities. If live carp is offered, they are released into a river or stream after the ceremony, while paper carp are burned.

On the day of the Tao Quan ceremony, many families also burn old incense sticks, clean the incense burners and altars, and prepare to welcome the new year.

2Tao Quan Offering in Southern Vietnam

People in Southern Vietnam usually perform the Tao Quan ceremony at night, between 8 PM and 11 PM on the 23rd of the twelfth lunar month. This is to avoid disturbing the Kitchen Gods during the day when cooking activities are ongoing.

The offerings in the South mainly consist of spring rolls, pork sausage, sticky rice cakes, pickled onions, boiled chicken, and are accompanied by a dish of peanuts and black sesame candy, as well as a set of “flying crows and running horses” paper votives.

Unlike the North, the South does not offer carp or worshipping hats and robes.

3Tao Quan Offering in Central Vietnam

The people of Central Vietnam hold a grand ceremony for the Kitchen Gods on the 23rd of the twelfth lunar month. They start by replacing the sand in the incense burner and cleaning the Kitchen Gods’ altar.

While they do not offer hats and robes like in Northern Vietnam, Central Vietnamese families usually present a paper horse with a full set of tack, along with other offerings and votive paper.

After the ceremony, the hosts will remove the old statues of the three Kitchen Gods from the altar and place them next to the shrines at the beginning of the village or under a large, ancient tree at a crossroads. They will then welcome the new statues of the Kitchen Gods and place them on the altar to begin the new year.

In Hue, many families also erect a ceremonial pole in front of their house on the morning of the 23rd. The ceremony for the Kitchen Gods takes place in the afternoon of the 30th, after which the gods are welcomed back, and on the first day of the new year, they are returned to their altar.

For reference: What are the different types of and their meanings?

4Comparing the Tao Quan Offerings in the Three Regions

The Tao Quan offerings in the three regions of Vietnam differ in their specifics:

In Northern Vietnam, traditional dishes such as sticky rice, chicken, pork sausage, bamboo shoots soup, spring rolls, and pork patties are offered. In some places, there are also sticky rice dishes like the congee of the “midwife,” made with glutinous rice, ginger, and brown sugar.
In Central Vietnam, particularly in Hoi An and Hue, there is a custom of worshipping earthenware statues of the Kitchen Gods and erecting ceremonial poles. The new and old statues are placed side by side, along with offerings of flowers, fresh fruit, and either tuna or mackerel.
In Southern Vietnam, in addition to savory dishes like boiled chicken, pickled onions, spring rolls, and pork sausage, there is also a dish of peanuts and black sesame candy.

Comparing the Tao Quan offerings in the three regions

Despite the differences in the offerings, the common thread across the three regions is the hope that any misfortune from the previous year will pass, and the wish for a fortunate, peaceful, and prosperous new year.