Just a stroll down a narrow alley, beside a market or school gate, the familiar “snip-snip” of vintage black scissors clashing signals the presence of a Vietnamese salad (nộm) stall. The aroma of Láng basil, perilla, tangy vinegar, and a hint of spicy warmth mingling in the air—it’s an unmistakable signature. This is the scent of Hanoi, of afternoons after school, of gatherings with friends, of nameless sweet memories.
Today, Hanoi’s nộm comes in countless variations: five-color nộm, chicken nộm, bird nộm, pig ear nộm… But the most “authentic,” the most celebrated, remains nộm bò khô (dried beef salad). This dish is not only easy to enjoy but suits every season. In summer, its refreshing sweet and sour flavors cool the scorching heat. In winter, the crunchy texture and spicy chili warmth leave diners feeling cozy. The ingredients are simple: green papaya shreds, thin carrot slices, dried beef or braised beef, roasted peanuts, herbs, and a sweet and sour dressing. Yet, it’s the harmony of sour, spicy, salty, sweet, and the subtle bitterness of herbs that makes this dish a symbol of Hanoi’s street food.
Nộm Long Vi Dung
Nộm Long Vi Dung is one of Hanoi’s oldest nộm shops, nestled in the Old Quarter for over 70 years. Though unassuming, it’s almost always bustling. At first glance, its nộm seems “simpler” than others—just four types of beef: char siu, tendon, flank, and thin slices, tossed with papaya, carrots, sweet and sour dressing, roasted peanuts, and herbs. No frills, no elaborate ingredients, yet it’s the quality and meticulousness in every step that defines Long Vi Dung’s legacy.
The char siu is braised and fried to perfection, the tendon translucent and chewy, the meat tender without a trace of gristle. The flank, carved into flower-like shapes, is parboiled and fried three times to achieve a crispy exterior while retaining its moist, buttery interior. The beef tendon is simmered just right—not too tough, not too soft, clear yet chewy. The thin beef slices, amber-hued and sweet, are often mistaken for venison jerky. All are united by a honey-colored dressing, smoothly balanced with mild sweetness, subtle saltiness, and gentle sourness. When tossed with crisp papaya and fresh herbs, the dish achieves a perfect equilibrium, leaving diners savoring every last drop of the sauce.
What sets Long Vi Dung apart is its avoidance of fish sauce in the dressing. Instead, the sauce is crafted from salt, white vinegar, and a custom-made soy sauce—a family recipe passed down through generations. This unique approach creates a light, fragrant, and clear flavor that has become the shop’s signature for decades.
Each type of beef at Long Vi Dung requires a distinct, labor-intensive process. Even the “simplest” char siu involves selecting tender meat with tendons, parboiling, marinating, and frying to achieve the perfect translucent chewiness. The flank demands skill and patience, fried three times to avoid dryness or fishiness. The thin beef slices—a favorite among many—are the most laborious: minced into a powder-like consistency, seasoned, and dried near the stove. The tendon is simmered precisely for one hour, its clarity and chewiness carefully monitored. Daily, the shop prepares around 80kg of meat to meet demand.
All this effort results in a dish that seems rustic yet is refined in every detail—a delicacy embodying Hanoi’s essence, where even the slicing of meat and the last drop of sauce are cherished.
Nộm Cô Cúc
If Long Vi Dung represents the quintessential Old Quarter nộm, then Nộm Cô Cúc at 71 Lò Đúc is a beloved destination for Hanoi’s night food enthusiasts. For over 20 years, this small shop has opened from 8 PM to midnight, becoming an indispensable spot for connoisseurs.
What makes Nộm Cô Cúc special is its signature sweet and sour fish sauce and the generous mix of ingredients. Each bowl is brimming with dried beef, tendon, herbs, roasted peanuts, papaya, carrots… all tossed until the dressing is evenly absorbed, creating a harmonious blend of sour, spicy, salty, and sweet. The nutty peanuts and refreshing herbs complement the chewy beef, making every bite satisfying.
Beyond the traditional nộm, the shop offers grilled offal, stomach, and flank—side dishes that delight regulars with their rich aroma and bold seasoning. With its simple setting—plastic chairs by the roadside, warm yellow lights spilling from the corner—Nộm Cô Cúc captures the essence of Hanoi’s nightlife: straightforward, authentic, and utterly captivating.
For many, visiting Cô Cúc isn’t just about enjoying a delicious bowl of nộm but also immersing in Hanoi’s vibrant night atmosphere—where the hum of vehicles blends with the scent of grilled food, and the heat of chili peppers mingles with the laughter of young friends. Here, nộm bò khô is more than a dish; it’s part of urban life, a small joy amidst the bustling city.
Through decades, nộm bò khô has maintained its place in Hanoi’s culinary culture. Despite the influx of modern eateries and novel dishes, this humble salad retains its unique charm. Hanoians, with their refined palates, find in nộm bò khô not just flavor but a blend of memories and emotions.
Amidst Hanoi’s myriad delicacies, nộm bò khô stands as a symbol of street food—simple yet sophisticated, rustic yet deeply rooted in local identity. It’s more than a dish; it’s a slice of Hanoi’s culture, where every flavor tells a story, and every bowl preserves memories across generations.
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