Tucked away quietly in a corner of the Tam Giang lagoon in Ngu My Thanh village, Quang Loi commune, Quang Dien district, Thua Thien – Hue province, is a unique floating market. This region has boasted many famous markets, such as Dan Luong, Bai Dap, and more recently, Ngu Xa. However, the floating market in Ngu My Thanh is one of its kind in Central Vietnam.
Around 3 a.m., while darkness still enveloped the surroundings, the “aquatic fishermen” were already hard at work, their oars creaking softly as they rowed, and the beam of their flashlights dancing on the water’s surface. Elderly fisherman Tran Minh, 73, from Ngu My Thanh village, gently pulled up a fine-mesh net from the depths of the lagoon. He could feel the weight of the catch—a variety of brackish water fish, a specialty of this lagoon. Within minutes, sections of the net were lifted out of the water and placed in the boat, revealing a squirming mass of fresh, gleaming fish. “I’ve got almost 2 kilograms here; I should make about VND30,000 from this!” he exclaimed, proudly displaying his catch. He had three more nets to go, and if they were as fruitful as the first, he would earn over VND100,000 by morning.
Further away, about 40 paddle strokes, Mr. Tran Le, a 55-year-old fellow villager, was also hauling in his nets. His boat was already filled with several baskets of fresh fish, a result of his early start. The uniqueness of the fish and shrimp from Tam Giang lagoon, he whispered, lay in their habitat—the largest brackish water lagoon in Southeast Asia. The brackish water fauna of this region has long been renowned for its delicious taste, a perfect blend of freshwater sweetness and seawater salinity. While fish, shrimp, and crab can be found elsewhere, those from Tam Giang are considered the tastiest due to their unique combination of salty and sweet flavors, as well as their rich and aromatic flesh, making them suitable for a variety of dishes, from rustic to refined.
Like fisherman Minh, Mr. Le has decades of experience casting nets. Many others in this fishing village also make a living from this age-old trade. Over the past 15 years, with the implementation of a resettlement policy for “aquatic fishermen,” these fisherfolk have been able to build homes on solid ground, and their children have gained access to education. As a result, the village was renamed Ngu My Thanh. However, the tradition of rowing and net casting continues to be a source of livelihood for many.
And so, as the sun began to rise, when the fish and shrimp were hauled in, these fisherfolk would paddle to this very floating market, awaiting traders to buy their catch. Elderly fishermen like Mr. Minh and Mr. Le, and many others like them, have relied on this lagoon for their sustenance. And it is here that the younger generation is also growing up, continuing the legacy. According to the village elders, the floating market of Ngu My Thanh has been around for centuries, with its roots tracing back to the people of Phu Loc and Cau Hai. What started as a simple fish trading spot for a fishing village gradually transformed into a bustling marketplace for the entire Tam Giang lagoon region, attracting traders from districts like Phong Dien, Phu Loc, and Huong Tra.
At around 4 a.m., standing on the shore of Ngu My Thanh, one would witness a vast expanse of the lagoon, shrouded in thick darkness, gradually illuminating as hundreds of tiny boats approach, their flashlights flickering on the water. These boats would then cluster together, their lights merging to form a bright beacon in the vast lagoon before dispersing and clustering again at different points.
Ms. Thuan, a local trader, shared that the sellers at this market are not just local fishermen but also fisherfolk from nearby districts like Phu Loc, Phong Dien, and Huong Tra, who gather here every morning. The buyers, on the other hand, are mostly traders who need to make quick purchases to resell the goods at other markets. Hence, this floating market operates only from 4 a.m. to around 7 a.m.
One of the most distinctive features of this market, perhaps unique in the world, is the “chase trade.” Buyers paddle their boats in pursuit of sellers. When they pull alongside each other, the buyer inspects the seller’s goods, and a transaction takes place. Elderly women, their voices carrying the sweet lilt of the Hue accent, engage in hushed conversations, haggling over prices. The buyer then transfers the goods to their boat and pays without further negotiation. This process repeats itself as the buyer chases after other boats, filling their own boat with goods. Once they have a substantial load, they paddle back to shore, load their motorbikes, and head to the next market to resell their purchases.
After nearly two hours of net hauling, fisherman Nguyen Minh had amassed almost 10 kilograms of fish, shrimp, and crab. He knew his regular buyers and their preferences, and the prices were usually set, so he sold his catch quickly. Like Mr. Minh, Mr. Le, and many other fisherfolk, Nguyen Minh often sold his goods at a slightly lower price to ensure that the buyers also made a small profit when reselling at other markets. On some occasions, they even threw in a few extra fish or crabs, especially if the buyer was a familiar face. It was a way of supporting each other through life’s challenges and fostering a sense of community.
And so, as the sun rose, the market dispersed. Sellers returned home, and buyers rushed to resell their purchases at the morning markets. Only then did boats carrying essential goods arrive at the floating market. By this time, the fisherfolk had earned some money and were ready to purchase these necessities for their families. One such trader, Ms. Duong from Cu Lac village, brought not only rice, salt, vegetables, and meat but also oil lamps and fishing gear to sell to the fisherfolk. Interestingly, many villagers trusted her enough to use her as a “bank,” depositing their money with her for safekeeping. If they ever needed money for their children’s education or medical expenses, they could “withdraw” from their savings with her, paying her back later with the proceeds from their catch. This simple, harmonious cycle of life continued day after day in this peaceful lagoon.
In recent years, the floating market of Ngu My Thanh has gained recognition among tourists for its unique charm, becoming a popular attraction for visitors to Hue. The development of community-based and eco-tourism initiatives in Ngu My Thanh, coupled with the recognition of its products under the OCOP (One Commune, One Product) program, is expected to boost Quang Dien’s potential, leveraging its strengths and natural advantages to enhance the quality, value, and brand of its unique local products, while also promoting trade, tourism, and rural services.
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