Sticky rice with mung beans, or ‘xoi xeo’, is not a dish reserved for grand celebrations or lavish banquets. Instead, it is the flavor of early mornings, hurried lunches, and chilly late nights in Hanoi. This humble dish is not just a snack but a part of the soul of the city.
To create the perfect ‘xoi xeo’, Hanoians pay meticulous attention to every step of the process. The main ingredient is ‘gao nep cai hoa vang’ rice, renowned for its round, plump grains, subtle fragrance, and distinctive sticky texture. The rice is carefully cleaned and soaked to ensure that when cooked, the grains are tender yet retain their shape. The distinctive yellow hue of the dish is achieved not with food coloring but with fresh turmeric, resulting in an alluring golden sheen.
The “xeo” or mung beans are the soul of this dish. Only the best mung beans with golden yellow insides and plump seeds are selected. After soaking, the beans are steamed, mashed, and shaped into round patties. When serving, thin slices of the bright yellow bean patties are laid atop the sticky rice. This dish is then topped with fragrant fried shallots and rich chicken fat. The aroma of the crispy fried shallots and the richness of the chicken fat enhance the nutty and sticky flavors of the rice and beans, creating an irresistible combination. The intricate preparation and delicate blending of ingredients make ‘xoi xeo’ a unique culinary masterpiece of Hanoi, a simple yet exquisite creation.
When one thinks of ‘xoi xeo’, images of street vendors and modest roadside eateries come to mind, places where the traditional flavors are preserved and cherished. The following are iconic destinations for food lovers in the capital:
1. **Trương Định Street’s 325 ‘Xoi Xeo’ with Assorted Toppings**:
For connoisseurs of Hanoi’s cuisine, ‘xoi xeo’ at 325 Truong Dinh Street is a must-visit. This eatery is famous for its assorted toppings, including eggs, braised meat, pate, and crispy fried shallots. A serving here can fill you up, thanks to the harmonious blend of sticky rice, nutty beans, savory toppings, and fragrant shallots. The restaurant caters to diverse customer needs by opening both in the morning and evening.
**2. ‘Xoi Xeo’ by Ms. May on Hang Bai Street**:
Located at the intersection of Hang Bai and Ly Thuong Kiet Streets, Ms. May’s ‘xoi xeo’ stall has been operating for over two decades. The secret to her success lies in simplicity and subtlety, preserving the traditional flavors of ‘xoi xeo’. Her dish is a perfect blend of sticky rice, mung beans, fried shallots, and chicken fat, offering a humble yet delectable breakfast option. Despite always being busy, Ms. May skillfully wraps each portion swiftly and professionally, creating a unique queuing culture.
**3. Ms. Tuyet’s ‘Xoi Xeo’ (Cu Loc Alley)**:
With a 30-year legacy, Ms. Tuyet’s ‘xoi xeo’ has become an icon of Cu Loc Alley in Thanh Xuan District. The unique feature of this stall is that the ‘xoi xeo’ is prepared according to the traditional flavors of Tuong Mai village. The combination of nutty beans, rich chicken fat, sticky rice, and crispy shallots creates an unforgettable taste. Despite the modest space, Ms. Tuyet’s ‘xoi xeo’ has captivated even the most discerning palates.
**4. Mr. Yen’s ‘Xoi’ (Nguyen Huu Huan Street)**:
Unlike traditional ‘xoi’ stalls, Mr. Yen offers a more modern approach with a variety of enticing toppings. While not purely ‘xoi xeo’, the dishes here have a distinct flavor. They are served with braised meat, chicken with mushrooms, or savory eggs. Mr. Yen’s ‘xoi’ is known for not causing a greasy feeling, allowing diners to fully enjoy the flavors without feeling overwhelmed.
**5. Cat Lin ‘Xoi’ (Duong Thanh Street)**:
Cat Lin ‘xoi’ stall on Duong Thanh Street is renowned for its consistent quality over the years. The ‘xoi’ here is prepared according to the ancient ‘Ke Cho’ market standards, ensuring each grain is sticky and aromatic. In addition to ‘xoi xeo’, they also offer corn ‘xoi’ and white ‘xoi’. A notable feature is their generosity with fried shallots, an essential accompaniment to ‘xoi xeo’, delighting shallot aficionados.
**6. Oanh Oanh ‘Xoi’ (De La Thanh Street)**:
Oanh Oanh ‘xoi’ is one of the most popular ‘xoi’ stalls today. They use high-quality sticky rice, resulting in a soft and sticky texture, paired with thinly sliced mung beans in the traditional style. The stall also offers a variety of side dishes, such as braised meat, chicken with mushrooms, savory eggs, sausage, and pate, providing a range of choices for customers.
**7. Dr. Xoi (Multiple Branches)**:
With multiple outlets across Hanoi, Dr. Xoi is a familiar destination for many. They offer a diverse range of ‘xoi’, from traditional ‘xoi xeo’ to ‘xoi’ with meat, patties, spicy ribs, pate, and chicken. The ‘xoi’ here is soft, sticky, and intact, and the fillings are marinated to perfection, making it a satisfying meal.
These ‘xoi’ stalls are not just places to enjoy delicious food but also repositories of Hanoi’s traditional culinary culture. In the chilly autumn weather, holding a warm packet of ‘xoi xeo’, wrapped in banana leaves, you’ll experience the essence of Hanoi—simple, subtle, and heartwarming. Perhaps, this is one of the most memorable experiences when exploring the captivating city of Hanoi.
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