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The Ultimate Guide to Witnessing the Breathtaking Hydrangea Bloom at Vietnam’s “Coldest Mountain”

29 May, 2025

Season of Hydrangea Blooms

Due to its high altitude, Mau Son’s climate has a unique subtropical and temperate character, with an annual average temperature of 15.6°C and two distinct seasons. Summer spans from April to October, offering cool weather with average temperatures ranging from 16-21°C. In contrast, winter lasts from November to March of the following year, with average temperatures between 7-12°C. The coldest year even saw temperatures dipping to -5°C, with frequent fog covering the mountain and snowfall on the chilliest days.

Mau Son boasts a majestic landscape, making it a famous tourist destination in Lang Son province and an ideal resort that attracts countless visitors annually. One unmissable activity when visiting is to snap photos with the blooming hydrangeas, typically in full bloom from May to July. By this time, the early seasonal rains have nurtured the flowers to blossom evenly, while the weather remains pleasantly cool without the bitter cold of winter.

Hydrangeas were first planted by the French in the early 20th century at the houses on top of Mau Son Mountain. They bloom profusely in mid-May and continue to flourish for about two months.

Hydrangeas are often associated with gratitude and sincerity, possessing a fragile yet captivating beauty. On Mau Son Mountain, hydrangeas don’t grow solitarily but sprawl in clusters and vast carpets across the mountain slopes, stone paths, and around the ancient, moss-covered houses. Hydrangeas typically bloom in clusters and exhibit dynamic color changes. During their blooming cycle, these flowers transform from white to shades of emerald green or blush pink.

The winding road to the summit of Mau Son twists and turns along the mountain’s flanks. As you ascend, you’ll notice a distinct change in the atmosphere, from the sultry heat at the mountain’s base to the refreshing coolness at elevations above 1,000 meters. Along the way, hydrangea bushes begin to appear, peeking out from beneath the canopy, beside small streams, or nestled within the gardens of local residents.

What sets Mau Son apart is that hydrangeas are not cultivated extensively for tourism but thrive naturally due to the region’s unique climate and soil conditions. Consequently, the hydrangeas of Mau Son exude a wild, rustic, and approachable charm.

These flowers are primarily planted on the steps and porches of ancient villas. As a result, visitors will frequently encounter vibrant hydrangeas everywhere they turn. Beyond admiring the hydrangeas, the journey to Mau Son unveils a plethora of dynamic experiences. With its mountainous terrain, pleasant climate, and abundant ecosystem, Mau Son is ideal for mountain climbing, cloud hunting, and immersing yourself in pristine natural scenery.

Tourists pose for photos amidst the vibrant hydrangeas.

Additionally, Mau Son is a cultural hub for the Red Dao ethnic community, where visitors can delve into their customs, traditional attire, and distinctive way of life. Notably, the region offers hot spring bathing and community-based eco-tourism experiences, complemented by the opportunity to savor local specialties, enriching the overall adventure in this mountainous border region of Lang Son.

For many travelers, a trip to Mau Son during the hydrangea season is more than just a brief excursion; it’s a chance to reconnect with nature and find serenity away from the hustle and bustle of city life.

Lang Son’s Culinary Delights

Amidst the romantic natural scenery and characteristic chilly climate, the following three Lang Son specialties offer unmissable culinary experiences for those venturing into this remote borderland.

Lang Son Roasted Duck

The renowned dish that acts as the culinary ambassador of Lang Son is none other than roasted duck. This dish differs entirely from roasted duck dishes found in other regions, as the ducks are marinated with distinct local spices such as mac mat leaves, doi seeds, and thuoc qua (a type of Chinese herb).

Lang Son roasted duck is a specialty that embodies the essence of the mountainous region. The intricate preparation method and unique dipping sauce recipe make this dish particularly special and appealing to near and far travelers.

After being stuffed with mac mat leaves, the ducks are roasted over charcoal until their skin turns golden, glossy, and crisp. The aroma of forest herbs permeates every fiber of the meat, tantalizing the senses of passersby. Whether enjoyed on its own or accompanied by rice paper and fresh herbs, Lang Son roasted duck retains its robust and unforgettable flavor.

Khau Nhuc

Khau nhuc is a traditional dish of the Tay and Nung ethnic groups in Lang Son. It originated in China and was later introduced to Vietnam, where the local Tay and Nung communities adapted it to suit their regional tastes. Over time, khau nhuc has become an indispensable dish during important occasions such as weddings and banquets among the ethnic communities in the region.

The primary ingredient is pork belly, meticulously marinated with five-spice powder, rice wine, soy sauce, and especially lau soi leaves, a type of local herb. After being steamed to tenderness, the meat is roasted to give the skin a golden hue, then steamed again for several hours until it melts in your mouth. Khau nhuc captivates not only with its luscious texture but also with the harmonious blend of flavors—salty, sweet, spicy, and the fragrant aroma of herbs.

This dish often graces celebratory tables during festive occasions or as a token of hospitality when welcoming guests, reflecting the respect and warmth of the local people.

Banh Ap Chao

The outer shell of banh ap chao is made from a mixture of sticky rice and regular rice flour, soaked and ground to a semi-liquid consistency, with a touch of mashed beans added for extra crispness and flavor. This concoction is then fried in oil until the exterior turns golden brown and crispy, while the inside remains soft and fragrant. Banh ap chao is similar to a traditional fried doughnut, but the distinction lies within. The filling consists of Lang Son-style duck meat, marinated to perfection.

Hot banh ap chao is an incredibly enjoyable snack and a must-try when visiting Lang Son.

This delicacy tastes even better when dipped in a sweet and sour fish sauce or the local spicy chili sauce. Amid the chilly mountain air, taking a bite of this hot pastry and savoring the crispy exterior and fragrant filling is an experience that explains why this treat is so beloved by the locals.