Tips

“Top 3 Iconic Winter Delicacies in Hanoi: Decades-Old Bakeries Where Customers Queue Up, Selling Out 4 Batches in Just 3 Hours”

Beyond a mere snack, bánh trôi tàu embodies generations of cherished memories and flavors. In the heart of Hanoi, decades-old stalls quietly preserve the essence of this timeless Vietnamese delicacy.

Administrator

14 November, 2025

Phạm Bằng’s Floating Rice Cake

Amidst the bustling Hàng Giầy Street, a humble stall stands as a testament to the legacy of “Phạm Bằng’s floating rice cake,” a cherished memory for many Hanoians. Though artist Phạm Bằng passed away years ago, his family continues to open the stall every winter, preserving the flavors of the past and honoring his legacy.

Without a flashy sign or clear address, the stall is tucked away in a narrow alley of an apartment complex, furnished with only a few simple plastic chairs. Yet, as October winds begin to blow, people flock here. For over 40 years, the stall has offered just three dishes: floating rice cake, lục tàu xá, and chí mà phù—sweet treats synonymous with Hanoi’s winter.

The floating rice cake here is unpretentious, without coconut milk. It features a smooth glutinous rice exterior filled with black sesame or grated coconut, served in a warm ginger syrup that’s mildly spicy and sweet. The ginger’s warmth, combined with the rich filling and soft rice cake, creates a perfect winter delight.

Lục tàu xá, a green bean soup with lotus seeds, mã thầy roots, and pomelo peel, is a favorite for its nutty, light, and healthy flavor. Chí mà phù, a thick black sesame pudding, is a “beauty tonic” for women, both fragrant and nourishing.

During the season, the stall is always full. Visitors come not just for the food but to relive the nostalgia of old Hanoi: sitting in a cozy stall, listening to the wind outside, and savoring the warm ginger aroma filling the room.

Cô Bích’s Floating Rice Cake

At the corner of Hàng Điếu and Thành streets, near Hàng Da Market, you’ll find Cô Bích’s sidewalk floating rice cake stall. Every late afternoon, it buzzes with customers, from students to seniors. It’s a beloved spot for Hanoians seeking warm desserts in winter.

Cô Bích’s stall has been around for over 30 years. Initially, she sold black bean, green bean, and pomelo soups. Later, as the weather cooled, she added floating rice cake, cassava pudding, and bà cốt pudding. Each bowl of floating rice cake costs 20,000 VND, with two green bean paste balls and one black sesame ball.

The dish is renowned for its balanced flavors. The glutinous rice exterior is smooth and chewy, the green bean and black sesame fillings are fragrant, and the ginger syrup is mildly spicy, enhanced with coconut milk, roasted peanuts, and sesame for a rich yet non-greasy finish. The stall uses palm sugar for a golden hue and distinct sweetness.

Open daily from 9 AM to 10 PM, the stall is busiest in the afternoon when the cold sets in. Besides floating rice cake, the cassava and bà cốt puddings are also popular for their moderate sweetness and well-cooked ingredients, warming the stomach without being heavy.

Today, Cô Bích’s two daughters carry on her legacy, maintaining the stall that has been a part of the Old Quarter for decades. It’s more than a business—it’s a family pride.

Cô Vân’s Floating Rice Cake

Unlike the stalls on main streets, Cô Vân’s floating rice cake stall is nestled in the quiet alley of Đê Tô Hoàng (Hai Bà Trưng District). When Hanoi’s winds blow, from 3 PM onward, the alley comes alive with laughter and the steam from hot pots of dessert.

Cô Vân’s stall has been around for over 20 years. She learned the craft from her husband’s family, known for their traditional floating rice cakes. Despite being a modest street stall with plastic chairs, it’s always crowded. Daily, she prepares 3-4 baskets of floating rice cakes, along with bà cốt, black bean, and cassava puddings, selling out within hours.

What sets her stall apart is the unique meat-filled floating rice cake. The filling includes minced pork, wood ear mushrooms, shiitake mushrooms, and pepper, seasoned to perfection. Paired with warm ginger syrup, the slight saltiness of the meat blends with the spicy-sweet syrup, creating an intriguing flavor.

The rice cakes are evenly shaped with thin, soft exteriors. The black sesame and green bean fillings are smooth and fragrant. Enjoying a hot bowl of floating rice cake on a chilly afternoon warms both body and soul.

Most customers are locals and snack enthusiasts who patiently wait in line, chatting as they do. Once finished, they promptly give up their seats—a beautiful tradition of Hanoi’s street food culture.