Mrs. Hoanh’s Steamed Rice Rolls
Located on Tô Hiến Thành Street, Mrs. Hoanh’s Steamed Rice Rolls is one of the five culinary establishments in Hanoi honored to be included in the Michelin Selected 2024 list. For over 70 years, the restaurant has consistently been bustling with customers from early morning until late at night, maintaining its reputation as a “culinary hotspot” for both locals and international visitors.
The restaurant’s origins are tied to Mrs. Hoanh, a native of Thanh Trì village, known as the “cradle” of rice paper making. Initially, she carried her rice rolls in a basket, wandering the streets. Once she had a steady stream of regular customers, she rented a small house on Tô Hiến Thành Street to open her restaurant. Thanks to her friendly demeanor and distinctive flavors, loyal customers brought in new ones, and the restaurant grew busier, with tables spilling out onto the sidewalk to accommodate the crowd.
According to Mrs. Nhung, Mrs. Hoanh’s granddaughter, selecting the right rice is the most crucial step in making delicious rice rolls. The rice is soaked for two hours, ground into a fine paste, and then filtered twice over half a day. The timing must be precise to prevent the batter from souring. When steaming, the chef’s hands must be skilled and steady, ensuring the rice sheets are thin, soft, yet not fragile. Each sheet is carefully lifted with a bamboo stick, laid flat, and brushed with scallion oil or filled with minced pork and wood ear mushrooms, depending on the customer’s preference.
Originally, the restaurant only served cold rice rolls with scallion oil, accompanied by mock pork and dipping sauce. Later, to cater to diverse tastes, they added hot rice rolls filled with pork. Each plate features translucent, tender rolls neatly arranged and drizzled with rich scallion oil, served with thick slices of cinnamon pork, meatballs, or grilled pork, according to preference. The dipping sauce is the “soul” of the dish, carefully balanced to achieve a harmonious sweet and sour flavor with an appealing amber hue.
A unique feature that sets Mrs. Hoanh’s rice rolls apart is the use of cyclotella, a rare ingredient in Northern Vietnamese cuisine. Cyclotella is an aquatic insect containing aromatic essential oils. Unlike other places that fry or roast it, Mrs. Hoanh’s restaurant steams the cyclotella to preserve its natural oils and shape. Each cyclotella costs 60,000 VND, twice the price of a plain rice roll, yet it remains a favorite among discerning diners.

Many foreign visitors to Hanoi are curious to try this unique dish. Initially, they may hesitate at the sight of the whole insect, but after tasting it, most are pleasantly surprised by its rich, aromatic flavor. However, the strong scent of the essential oil can be overwhelming for those unaccustomed to it, so guests are often advised to consider carefully before ordering.
The restaurant is open from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m., with peak hours between 7–8 a.m. and 11–1:30 p.m. Daily, they serve thousands of rice rolls and 30–50 cyclotella insects. Prices range from 30,000 to 60,000 VND per serving, with special servings including cyclotella reaching up to 120,000 VND.
In 2019, Mrs. Hoanh’s rice rolls were selected as one of nine dishes served at the U.S.-North Korea Summit in Hanoi, a testament to their quality and longstanding reputation. Despite some mixed opinions about pricing and flavor compared to earlier years, the restaurant remains a beloved culinary symbol for generations of Hanoians.
Mrs. Xuan’s Steamed Rice Rolls
While Mrs. Hoanh’s rolls embody the classic flavors of Thanh Trì, Mrs. Xuan’s Steamed Rice Rolls on Hòe Nhai Hill (Ba Đình District) tell a story of resilience and dedication, as a family has upheld the craft for nearly half a century.
Mrs. Nguyễn Thị Bắc, commonly known as Mrs. Xuan after her husband, carries on her family’s tradition of making rice flour. Originally, her in-laws made noodles and rice cakes before transitioning to rice rolls. Starting with a humble thatched hut, she and her children sold rolls at the market. Over time, word spread, and the restaurant became a beloved destination not only for locals but also for visitors from Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang, and even abroad.

The restaurant’s hours are flexible, catering to various mealtimes, but it is busiest at lunchtime. By 11:30 a.m., a line of people and vehicles forms outside. Despite waiting 30–40 minutes for freshly made rolls, customers remain patient, drawn by the unique flavor found nowhere else.
The rolls are handmade on-site, thin, tender, and served piping hot. Each table is equipped with a bowl of house-made dipping sauce, cinnamon pork, and fresh herbs. The restaurant’s signature dish is the egg rice roll, featuring a filling enriched with chicken egg for a creamy, savory taste, though it is typically served last due to its longer preparation time.

Remarkably, despite the prevalence of industrial grinders, the restaurant persists in using a traditional stone mill over a century old. This heirloom was once used to grind flour for noodles and rice cakes. The manual grinding method ensures the rolls are chewy, not crumbly, while retaining the natural sweetness of the rice.
Thanks to this secret, Mrs. Xuan’s rice rolls were featured in the Michelin Guide 2024. Each plate is a testament to the meticulousness, patience, and pride in Hanoi’s traditional craftsmanship.
Mrs. Hanh’s Steamed Rice Rolls
In the heart of Hanoi’s Old Quarter, at 16B Thọ Xương, Mrs. Hanh’s Steamed Rice Rolls is a beloved stop for food enthusiasts. Though only about 30 years old, compared to Mrs. Hoanh’s or Mrs. Xuan’s, the restaurant has left its mark with innovative twists on traditional flavors.
Mrs. Hanh’s rolls maintain the hand-ground flour tradition, using long-grain rice for a soft texture and natural sweetness. The thin, tender sheets are skillfully steamed to remain translucent when rolled. The fillings vary, including shiitake mushrooms, wood ear mushrooms, and minced pork, served with a light, slightly tangy dipping sauce that enhances the rolls’ delicate flavor.

A standout feature is the mắc khén dipping sauce, a spice unique to the Northwest region, adding a distinct aromatic heat. The combination of Hanoi’s subtle rolls and the forest-infused mắc khén creates a refreshing yet harmonious experience. The rolls are paired with cinnamon pork, lemongrass sausage, or mushroom egg cakes, appealing to a wide range of tastes.

The restaurant’s ambiance is simple, exuding the quaint charm of Hanoi’s old streets. Despite its unpretentious decor, guests feel a warm, familial atmosphere, as if dining in a relative’s kitchen. For those seeking an authentic local culinary experience, Mrs. Hanh’s Steamed Rice Rolls is a must-visit.
For Hanoians, rice rolls are more than a breakfast staple; they symbolize the refinement, skill, and meticulousness of the city’s culinary culture. On windy days, a plate of hot rice rolls, a bowl of warm dipping sauce, and the aroma of fried scallions can soothe the soul—a taste of Hanoi’s essence in a simple dish.
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