Hanoi’s Historic Street Food Alleys: A Tasty Tour
Hanoi’s old quarter is a culinary delight, boasting a myriad of street food options that reflect the city’s rich cultural heritage. One such destination is Hang Than Street in Ba Dinh District, a 500-meter stretch of culinary delights offering everything from traditional wedding services to delectable treats like com and xu xe.
What sets this street apart are the approximately 20 shops bearing the same brand name – Banh Com Nguyen Ninh – clustered at either end. It’s challenging for buyers, especially tourists, to discern which shop opened first, which has a license, or if there are any differences in quality.
Banh com, a traditional Vietnamese delicacy, is typically produced, packaged, and consumed on-site at these shops.
“Customers buy from whichever shop they prefer or are familiar with,” shared a salesperson from Nguyen Ninh No. 1 on Hang Than Street.
On January 2nd, Nguyen Ninh at No. 11 Hang Than, considered the oldest establishment on this street, was ordered to close for inspection and subsequently fined VND 40 million for four food safety violations.
Another intriguing spot is Ba Trieu Street, specifically the 200-meter stretch from the intersection with Tran Nhan Tong to Tue Tinh. Here, you’ll find over 10 shops selling the famous traditional roasted peanuts with basil, known as “lac rang hung liu Ba Van.”
The peanut products from these shops come in similar packaging, and their flavors are indistinguishable.
Adding to the intrigue, these shops all display signs proclaiming themselves as the “authentic,” “original,” “only,” or “genuine” establishment.
The owner of “Lac Rang Ba Van” at 180 Ba Trieu Street asserted that they are “registered” and produce their products on-site, not sourcing them from elsewhere. Two neighboring shop owners made similar statements.
Interspersed among the lac rang hung liu Ba Van shops on Ba Trieu Street are outlets selling salted dried apricot – “muoi o mai Ba Thu.” There are about 5-7 shops with identical color schemes and signage.
Salted dried apricot is a distinctive Hanoi condiment, featuring a unique blend of sour, spicy, salty, and sweet flavors. It is produced using apricot essence and ground dried apricots and is commonly used as a dip for fruits.
Ba Trieu Street is home to three consecutive shops bearing the name Muoi O Mai Ba Thu.
Another spot that might confuse diners, especially first-time visitors to Hanoi, is the cluster of four restaurants with similar signage at 1 Hang Manh, known for their famous “bun cha” (grilled pork with rice noodles).
“I’ve heard of Hang Manh’s bun cha, but seeing so many restaurants with the same name is surprising. I guess I’ll just choose the busiest one,” remarked a diner from Ho Chi Minh City who had just arrived at the location.
Since being selected by the Michelin Guide in June 2023, Dac Kim has distinguished itself with unique signage. The remaining restaurants continue to share the same name despite having different owners.
Hanoi once boasted a famous row of eateries called “Ong Gia” on To Ngoc Van Street in Tay Ho District, specializing in delicacies like medicinally steamed snails and grilled fish from West Lake. Along a short 200-meter stretch, there were numerous shops with names like “Ong Gia That” and “Ong Gia Xin.” Recently, due to road expansion, these eateries have relocated.
All the aforementioned shops and restaurants have a long history and a loyal customer base. According to a market management official, differentiating between the original and “genuine” shops is challenging because some newer shops registered their trademarks earlier, while long-standing shops registered later.
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