The Century-Old Thai Binh Market: A Food Lover’s Paradise with an Array of Irresistible Baked Goods and Aromas that Lure You In

The local people affectionately refer to the market as “Chợ Nhà”, instead of the more commonly known name of Thuận Vi. With their culinary expertise and attention to detail, the villagers focus on offering a wide variety of delicious pastries and baked goods, which make up two-thirds of the market’s produce. The selection of baked goods is not only diverse but also incredibly affordable and tasty, so much so that if you don’t get there early enough, by 8 am most treats are sold out.

Among the unique delicacies found at Thuận Vi market, one must try the ‘bánh tai mèo’, also known as ‘bánh tai voi’, ‘bánh xếp’, or ‘bánh hấp’. This delicate dish consists of thin layers of dough stacked together with a filling of minced meat and fried shallots, creating an aromatic sensation. The baking process is a true art form; the cakes are steamed in earthenware pots over a wood fire, requiring great skill to ensure even cooking without overcooking or undercooking. In the past, this warm treat was often reserved for the elderly, the ill, and new mothers. The dedication and early mornings of the bakers, who start their day at 2 am, ensure that by 5 am, fresh batches of these cakes are ready for the market. Despite the hard work, the cakes sell out daily, with each vendor selling around 15-20 kg of rice worth of cakes.

Another specialty not to be missed is the ‘bánh cuốn’. Watch as the thin rice flour sheets are skillfully grilled over charcoal and wood fires in the market, then skillfully rolled with fried pork fat and shallots. The true delight comes in the dipping sauce: a perfect balance of salty, sour, sweet, and spicy flavors enhanced by herbs, kumquats, and pepper. At just VND 10,000, this delicious dish is a bargain.

For a more rustic treat, try the ‘bánh bèo’, similar to ‘bánh đúc’ but poured into banana leaves and rolled into a cylinder with a small hole in the center filled with fried shallots. From above, the cake resembles a floating water hyacinth leaf. The locals typically enjoy this with chili sauce. At just VND 5,000 each, these cakes are a filling and affordable treat, often evoking nostalgia for those who have moved away from home. Many returning natives make a point of arriving early at the market to buy a few of these cakes to savor.

Beyond the baked goods, Thuận Vi market also boasts unique dishes like black bean sticky rice. This dish is served in small portions, topped with fried shallots and a sprinkle of salted sesame seeds for added flavor. Another treat is the ‘bánh khoai’, made from glutinous rice, black beans, and dried sweet potato, which is then crushed and shaped into cakes that can be sliced or rolled. The subtle sweetness and nutty flavor of the sweet potato and beans make this dish a hearty, flavorful choice. ‘Bánh đúc’, a soft and fatty treat with a nutty aroma, is another favorite. For a simple yet delightful snack, try the ‘bánh kê’, made from glutinous rice and millet, topped with beans, sugar, and sandwiched between crispy rice crackers. This humble treat is especially beloved by the elderly.

The women of Thuận Vi are renowned for their skill in making ‘bánh giầy giò’ and ‘bánh giầy đỗ’. The former is a delicate, white, sticky rice cake sandwiched with a perfectly sized slice of giò (Vietnamese sausage), wrapped in banana leaves, infusing the cake with a unique fragrance. The ‘bánh giầy đỗ’, on the other hand, has a subtle sweetness from its soft red bean paste filling, wrapped in a sticky rice dough. These treats are incredibly affordable, with pairs of ‘bánh giầy giò’ selling for just VND 3,000-5,000 and individual ‘bánh giầy đỗ’ going for VND 1,000-2,000. The quality and taste of these cakes are so renowned that they are often ordered for special occasions and celebrations by locals and visitors alike.