Exploring Hanoi’s Hidden Gem: Banh Cuon Ba Xuan
Nestled in an unassuming alley, Banh Cuon Ba Xuan has long been a favorite destination for discerning foodies. Despite wait times that can stretch from 30 to 40 minutes, diners patiently queue up. No jostling, no complaints, and regulars even eat quickly to vacate their seats for others.
The story begins with the family of Mrs. Nguyen Thi Bac, later known as Ba Xuan, after her husband’s name. Her husband’s family had a tradition of making rice noodles, and later switched to pho. However, it was the banh cuon that became the most enduring and profound, turning into a traditional trade that supported the entire family. In the beginning, the stall was just a few baskets that Mrs. Bac and her children carried to the market every morning. Over the years, from a makeshift stall with a thatched roof, this place gradually became an indispensable destination for Hanoi’s traditional food enthusiasts.
When the prestigious Michelin Guide consecutively included Banh Cuon Ba Xuan in its suggested listings, the stall gained even more prominence. However, contrary to the trend of expansion and commercialization, Ba Xuan’s children maintained the original scale and traditional recipes. Despite a doubling of customers, especially on weekends and after the Michelin Guide recognition, the stall retained its original staff. No additional hires, no new branches, no “upgrades” to the space—everything remained unchanged for decades.
The banh cuon is handcrafted on-site, ensuring a delicate thinness, softness, and warmth when served. The accompanying fish sauce, placed on each table, is complemented by quế (cinnamon) sausage and herbs. Notably, the egg banh cuon—a dish demanding higher skill and longer preparation time—is usually served last, yet it is the most craved item on the menu.
Since appearing in the Michelin Guide, the stall has attracted more foreign diners. Many international visitors to Vietnam make their way to this “signless” banh cuon spot to experience authentic traditional cuisine—a rustic space, on-site baking process, and, most importantly, unadulterated flavors.
While Banh Cuon Ba Xuan gained fame through its consecutive inclusions in the Michelin Guide’s suggested listings, Hanoi boasts numerous other long-standing, modest eateries that offer flavors unforgettable to those who try them.
Below is a list of banh cuon establishments renowned for their unique styles, each contributing to the city’s distinct culinary landscape.
1. Banh Cuon Ba Hoanh – To Hien Thanh
Address: 66 To Hien Thanh, Hai Ba Trung District
Opening Hours: 6:00 AM – 2:00 PM | 5:00 PM – 10:00 PM
When it comes to delicious banh cuon in Hanoi, many locals will immediately think of Ba Hoanh. This longstanding establishment, with limited space, is always packed with customers.
What sets Ba Hoanh’s banh cuon apart is the soft, thinly-rolled rice sheet brushed with a layer of shiny, fragrant, and greasy scallion oil. The accompanying sausage is thickly sliced, tender, and flavorful. Diners can also order additional dishes like grilled meatballs or grilled meat rolls, making it a hearty breakfast or dinner.
Notably, the restaurant’s dipping sauce is a light brown-tinted fish sauce with a subtle sweetness and sourness, and the distinctive addition of cau long (giant water bug) essence—a rare ingredient not found in many places. The cau long is steamed instead of grilled, preserving its characteristic aroma.
2. Banh Cuon Ba Hanh – 26B Tho Xuong
Address: 26B Tho Xuong, Hoan Kiem District
Opening Hours: 6:30 AM – 1:00 PM | 5:00 PM – 10:00 PM
Located next to the St. Joseph’s Cathedral, Ba Hanh’s small banh cuon stall is a go-to destination for both local and international guests. The authentic style of Thanh Tri banh cuon is meticulously preserved: the rice flour is manually ground, and the rice sheets are rolled extremely thin, soft, and chewy without falling apart.
The filling includes minced pork, wood ear mushrooms, shiitake mushrooms, and occasionally bean sprouts, fried onions, and sprouts. The dipping sauce is lightly seasoned, with a subtle sourness—a true representation of the Hanoi style of old, allowing the flavor of the banh cuon to shine.
The stall maintains a rustic charm in both its furniture and service style, offering a dining experience that is both humble and nostalgic.
3. Banh Cuon Dem Ton Duc Thang
Address: Small alley on Ton Duc Thang (near pole number 5), Dong Da District
Opening Hours: 10:00 PM – 4:00 AM the following day
Without a signboard or a fixed name, this banh cuon stall lights up every night to welcome hungry patrons. Affectionately referred to by various names like “banh cuon by the pole,” “night banh cuon,” or “banh cuon Co Lan,” it has become a beloved part of the neighborhood.
The banh cuon here features an incredibly thin and soft rice sheet that doesn’t tear, generously filled with meat and topped with golden, fragrant fried onions. What sets this place apart is that customers can customize their dipping sauce to their liking by adding chili, pepper, kumquat, or adjusting the saltiness and sweetness.
The quiet night atmosphere, yellow lamp light, and simple plastic tables in the alley create a uniquely “Hanoi after dark” dining experience. This spot is ideal for night owls, late-night revelers, or anyone craving a delicious bite in the quiet of the night.
4. Banh Cuon Thuy Khue
Address: Alley 29 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho District
Opening Hours: 6:30 AM – 10:00 AM
Mr. Pham Van Chinh’s banh cuon stall, run by the over-60-year-old himself, is a familiar spot for generations of students and locals in the area. Unlike many other banh cuon establishments that have become commercialized, this place maintains its prices at a very reasonable range of VND 15,000–20,000 per set, and it used to be even cheaper at VND 13,000 while still ensuring quality.
The banh cuon is handmade, with a translucent, smooth, and slightly chewy rice sheet that doesn’t crumble. The basic filling includes minced pork and wood ear mushrooms, and there’s also the popular egg banh cuon option. The dipping sauce is mildly sour and not too spicy, suitable for both the elderly and children.
The small space only accommodates a few tables, but it exudes a cozy and homely atmosphere.
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