In the Thai ethnic language, “rau thối” is known as pắc nam. This wild vine grows rampant in the forests, its long stems adorned with sharp thorns and deep green, symmetrical leaves. The tender young shoots are the most prized, used both in cooking and as a medicinal herb. Harvesting requires caution to avoid scratches from the thorns.
Rau thối thrives from March to June, when the Northwest forests are lush and humid. It’s most abundant in Sơn La, Điện Biên, Lai Châu, and Yên Bái. During this season, fresh rau thối appears in highland markets, often sold by locals. It’s not just a regional delicacy; it’s transported to Hanoi and other major cities, gracing menus at Northwest specialty restaurants. In Hanoi, prices can soar to hundreds of thousands of dong per kilogram, while locals sell it for just a fraction of that.
The Aroma of the Mountain Forest
Its name, “rau thối” (stinky vegetable), comes from its potent aroma, which can be off-putting to first-timers. However, many find the scent merely unusual rather than truly foul. Interestingly, the smell mellows after harvesting, and locals prefer it fresh to savor its full flavor.
When cooked, rau thối transforms into a fragrant, crisp, and sweet delight. This contrast between its raw scent and cooked taste makes it truly unique. Many visitors, initially hesitant, become fans after their first bite, even buying it as a souvenir.
Beyond its culinary appeal, rau thối is a prized herbal remedy. Locals use it to cool the body in summer and treat joint pain. Dried rau thối is used in traditional medicine to address liver, kidney, and stomach issues, as well as acid reflux, abdominal pain, and bitter taste in the mouth. Its health benefits have made it a sought-after specialty, valued for both flavor and wellness.
Delicious Dishes Featuring Rau Thối
Northwest cuisine shines with its creative blend of forest ingredients and ethnic culinary techniques. Rau thối is no exception, starring in a variety of unique, nutritious dishes.
Rau Thối Salad with Wild Eggplant and Dried Pork: A highlight in highland restaurants, young rau thối is boiled, mixed with wild eggplant and shredded dried pork, then seasoned with fish sauce, lime, chili, and peanuts. The result is a refreshing, tangy, and savory dish.
Pork Tail Soup with Rau Thối: A nourishing family favorite. Tender pork tail is simmered with rau thối, creating a sweet broth that complements the vegetable’s unique flavor.
Rau Thối Stir-Fried with Bamboo Shoots: A simple yet quintessential highland dish. Crisp bamboo shoots and rau thối combine for a light, refreshing summer meal.
Grilled Stuffed Fish with Rau Thối: A festival favorite. Freshwater fish like carp or grass carp are stuffed with rau thối and spices, then grilled over charcoal. The aroma of fish and rau thối creates an unforgettable dish.
Rau Thối Patties: A modern twist, loved by young foodies. Finely chopped rau thối is mixed with minced meat, seasoned, and fried until crispy. Served with rich fish sauce, it’s a delightful snack.
Rau Thối Egg Soup: Similar to tomato egg soup but with rau thối, this dish offers a bolder flavor, perfect for those who enjoy unique tastes.
Rau thối can also be simply boiled and dipped in fish sauce or stir-fried with beef or pork. Each preparation highlights its distinct flavor, making it a culinary icon.
For travelers, rau thối is a unique regional souvenir. Though less common than tea or plums, its distinctiveness makes it a memorable gift. Many visitors buy fresh or dried rau thối, despite its higher city prices, for its exceptional flavor and health benefits.
Today, rau thối has moved beyond highland home kitchens to urban restaurant menus, catering to tourists. It’s undoubtedly one of the Northwest’s most distinctive specialties, offering a curious blend of aroma, flavor, and cultural richness.
Beyond its initial aroma, rau thối reveals a crisp, sweet flavor when cooked, showcasing the sophistication of local cuisine. With its culinary and medicinal value, rau thối is a proud symbol of the Northwest, a must-try for anyone exploring Vietnam’s regional specialties.
