Go Market, located in Phong Thanh village, Tuy Phuoc town, Tuy Phuoc district, Binh Dinh province, holds a special place in Vietnam’s history. According to legend, this site was once a stronghold for the Tay Son army, led by Emperor Quang Trung, to protect Thi Nai port and Hoang De citadel. During the Lunar New Year, after arduous battles, the emperor decreed a three-day market fair, now known as Cho Go, for his soldiers and locals to celebrate and reunite with their families.
At the foot of Truong Uc mountain, where the Ha Thanh river flows into Thi Nai lagoon, lies a peculiar empty space. Quiet throughout the year, this place transforms into a bustling hub on the first morning of the Lunar New Year. Without any permanent structures, only mats laid out and tens of thousands of people gathering, this unique market fair becomes a festival steeped in history and culture. It has been recognized by the Vietnam Record Book Center as one of the “100 Most Unique Markets in Vietnam.”
A unique tradition of Cho Go is that whoever arrives first gets to choose their selling spot. Without any chaos or arguments, people form an orderly queue, showcasing their goods with mutual respect. This self-discipline and camaraderie create a harmonious and friendly atmosphere on this special day.
What captivates visitors the most is the peaceful atmosphere that permeates this market fair. Absent are the typical haggling and arguing over prices. Instead, people view buying and selling as a form of seeking blessings for a prosperous new year. Common items for sale include freshly harvested produce, betel leaves and areca nuts, local specialties like Truong Uc lime, fresh seafood from Thi Nai lagoon, and traditional delicacies such as “banh it la gai” (steamed glutinous rice cakes with mung bean filling wrapped in banana leaves), “nem cho huyen” (fried pork sausage), and rice wine.
However, the most popular purchases among tourists are still the symbolic betel leaves, papayas, and figs, believed to bring good fortune and happiness in the new year.
Cho Go is more than just a market; it’s a festival and a new year celebration for the local community. Visitors also get to enjoy traditional folk games such as balloon popping, lion dances, chess, opera singing, lotto, and “bai choi” (a form of lottery unique to Central Vietnam). Additionally, there are martial arts performances and demonstrations honoring the Tay Son tradition and the military training methods of Emperor Quang Trung.
Beyond the market, visitors can also indulge in local specialties like “tre rom” (a traditional pork sausage), “banh thuyen” (a type of small, round, and flat glutinous rice cake), “ruou bau da” (a unique variety of rice wine), and the aforementioned “banh it la gai.”
Cho Go is not just a place for entertainment; it embodies the traditional cultural values and spiritual beliefs of the people of Binh Dinh. It fosters a sense of community, neighborliness, and mutual support. Every Lunar New Year, Cho Go becomes a gathering place for people to reconnect with their roots and celebrate their unique heritage. The following verses capture the essence of this special festival:
“Bai choi” opens the spring festival,
A joyous celebration of our nation.
Let’s play to our heart’s content,
For we’ll gather again in twelve months’ time.
Should you roam far and wide,
Remember Cho Go and Truong Uc’s festive tide.”
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